Louis Vuitton的沙漠风暴

如同一艘宇宙飞船降落在棕榈泉上空的一座荒山上，Bob Hope的故居迎来了外星人：坚定果敢的女性，头颅高昂，裙摆轻柔地垂向运动鞋，或是穿着短裤大步向前。她们穿过一片屋檐下的露台，来到落霞映照的泳池边。2016 Louis Vuitton Cruise度假系列降临！

这场令人叹为观止的秀带有几分70年代气息，与建筑师John Lautner1973年以火山爆发为灵感打造的现代主义大宅相得益彰，也彰显出设计师Nicolas Ghesquière最具才华的作品。

图片来源：Louis Vuitton

自职业生涯之初，Nicolas Ghesquière就对未来主义深感兴趣。但这场太空探索之旅汲取了他多年经验之精华，并且似乎十分契合奢侈品牌的发展线索。尽管包袋设计中主要是小型手袋和小方包而非旅行工具，但这看起来仍像是一场充满活力、志在必得的进军。

观众席众星云集，包括Michelle Williams、Selena Gomez、Kanye West、亚洲女星张曼玉和法国传奇女星Catherine Deneuve。他们在郁郁葱葱的绿草坪上畅饮香槟后，步入户外露台上极具未来感的观众席就坐。

Delphine Arnault（LouisVuitton执行副总裁）坐在她的父亲Bernard Arnault（路威酩轩集团首席执行官兼总裁）和她的儿子Alexandre Arnault旁边，一同观看模特们的展示，她们身着的衣裙轻柔、飘逸，腰际间还隐约呈现一点透视设计。

再将视线转移到后台。在一个能观望到焦干大地和荒秃群山的房间里，Ghesquière正在阐述为什么Bob和DoloresHope的中世纪现代主义会激发他的灵感。“这个项目非常有想象力。我了解这个具有代表性的现代主义的故居，并且在15年前，我常常把此房屋想象成一个城市城堡的模样，”他继续说道。“我被它的外形深深地迷住了。在我刚来到Vuitton工作时，我就有这样一种感觉，人们是为艺术而旅行，而这可能是一场探索建筑美学的旅行。而数码图像的魅力成为人们想在现实中获得的另一种强大体验。”

Suzy在Bob Hope故居内留影

图片来源：Suzy Menkes/Instagram

“艺术是旅行的催化剂”这个概念源于对棕榈泉艺术博物馆的一次参观，Louise Bourgeois和Barbara Hepworth的雕塑、RoyLichtenstein的绘画和Anselm Kiefer的钢铁、石膏和织物作品混合媒材作品令人更坚定地相信，这座沙漠城市已与现代艺术结下了不解之缘。

度假系列巧妙地融合了飘逸、轻巧和坚毅、运动这两种截然不同的效果。女性可以穿着柔软长裙和运动鞋大步迈向世界；更坚毅的风格则凸显出70年代的姜锈色皮革夹克的质感。白裙上有蓝色花朵点缀的链子、黑色粗皮革鞋上绣着的雏菊、肩部是少女式的柔软褶裥或者是短裤上配有棉衬衫的图案，所有这些元素都散发出一丝甜美的气息。

Ghesquière提到他在Bob Hope故居里发现的多元化风格，主要体现在建筑风格上的野兽派与诸如浴室里的蝴蝶印花、室内泳池的绿化彩绘这样的甜美元素的鲜明对比，而混凝土和沙漠原石是这座大宅的核心。

演员Michelle Williams

图片来源：Suzy Menkes/Instagram

我应该问一问设计者关于Coachella的情况以及以“爱之夏”为主题的棕榈泉音乐艺术节是否引发起一场用皮带束腰让裙更加有型的潮流。我或许也该问一下，在尘土飞扬的加利福尼亚沙漠区，度假系列是否应该不时呈现出厚重御寒的感觉。但Nicolas坚持告诉我他是偏重法式风情的，如果其中带有本地元素，那便是沙漠的影响，这从手袋上的黑棕榈图案和女性社群中可以看出。

那么，Bob Hope的大宅是否让Louis Vuitton重返Ghesquière早年在Balenciaga时即十分热衷的未来主义了呢？“我的脑海中一直浮现着女英雄的形象，有些看起来很有未来感，而有些是那种普通的女英雄。”Nicolas说。“我设想的形象是多元的。不只是一位女性，而是具有不同的个性。”

Like a spaceship docked on an arid mountain above Palm Springs, Bob Hope’s former home welcomed the aliens: purposeful women, heads high, skirts breezing down to sneakers or legs striding out in shorts.They marched across the terrace, under the swooping saucer of a roof, out into the golden light of a setting sun reflected in a swimming basin of water.Louis Vuitton Cruise 2016 had landed!

The spectacular show, with a Seventies feel to match the modernist mansion, built in 1973 by architect John Lautner to suggest a volcanic eruption, was Vuitton’s cruise collection. And it brought out the best in designer Nicolas Ghesquière.

Picture credit: Louis Vuitton

From the start of his career he has held a torch for futurism. But this journey into space had all the finesse of experience and seemed a natural fit with the travel roots of the luxury brand. Even if the bags were mostly small clutch purses or square boxes, rather than travel tools, this seemed like an energetic and purposeful forward march.

A star-studded audience, from Michelle Williams and Selena Gomez, through Kanye West, Asian actress Maggie Cheung and French legend Catherine Deneuve, quaffed champagne on the preternaturally green lawn before taking to futuristic seats on the outside terrace.

Delphine Arnault, executive vice president of Louis Vuitton, joined her father, chairman and CEO of LVMHBernard Arnault, and his young son Alexandre Arnault in the audience, to watch the models in their light, long dresses, often revealing a little flesh at the waistline, descend the stairs to start theshow.

Backstage, in a room looking over the parched landscape and bare hills, Ghesquière explained why this mid-century modernism of Bob and Dolores Hope spoke to his creative soul. “As a project, it’s really visionary – I knew this symbolic house of modernism and I always dreamed 15 years ago about the house that was like the city’s castle,” he said. “I was intrigued by its shape. And when I started at Vuitton, I already had the feeling that people are travelling for art and that this could be an architectural journey. The strength of digital imagery has become another strong experience which people want to see in reality.”

Suzy posing against the interior of Bob Hope's house

Picture credit: Suzy Menkes/Instagram
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